Sunday, February 23, 2014

PAINT BLEEDING midcentury table

 
 
Does everyone remember the little mid century side table I picked up thrifting?
The plan was to spray it with a can of high gloss oil base white paint, however this was
also the perfect opportunity to show you ASCP can create a perfect white finish and teach
you a little trick of mine to deal with paint bleed.
 
 
 
I am referring to the strange browny red marks
that you might encounter while painting vintage furniture.
 
***
Your best defence to any problem is to understand what and why it happens.
 
What it is are OILS (tannins) leaching into your water based product and changing the color.
 
 
Why is because in these areas the wood is exposed and raw letting the oils come out.
 
 
Solution is simple ... you need to block/seal these areas locking in the tannin oils.

 
What I do is wax and repaint.
 
Wax is a good barrier against the oils and Annie Sloan Chalk Paint adheres to wax!
 
Alternatives are oil based paints, primers, and shellacs.
I know many ppl use Zinsser spray shellac, which I have used in the past to seal knots.
Not all woods bleed equally, pine for example generally doesnt give you too much issue
except for the knots. I find oak pretty easy going but mahogany can be just as bad as a red
shirt being thrown into a wash load of white underwear. Everything turns pink!

 
On this side table the original finish had been scratched and was starting to lift and flake off.
Consequently once my first coat of AS Pure White started to dry there were bleed spots all over.
 
*** OH THE HORROR!!! ***
 
 
If you look closely on the above photo you can see the entire face of the
drawers had a streaky bleed. In the upper right hand corner you
can also see a heavier line of bleed where it had been scratched.
 
Here is another area with heavy bleed, the bottom of a leg had
been banged around and the original finish was compromised
exposing the raw wood in tiny spots.
 The same thing will happen if you sand an old finish and expose the raw wood. When I am dealing
with heavy bleed it sometimes takes 2 or 3 applications of wax and paint before it completely
diminishes, but in the case of the drawer faces it was one coat of wax and a second coat of paint.
 
 
NOTE:
 
TREAT THE PROBLEM AREAS ONLY!
and
LET YOUR WAX DRY (60 mins) BEFORE REPAINTING!
no buffing
 
You only have to treat the bleed you do not have to redo, repaint, re wax every inch of your project. 
 
For example I had bleed coming through at the 3 seams where the angled trim attached
to the top but the rest of the surface was fine. I only waxed and repainted the seams.
 
***** 
I hope this information helps you understand the problem so you can also solve it.
 
 
 
 
 
Good Luck with your projects and your bleed!
 
 
 
 

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YOU KNOB! hand painted knobs


The French Clock set

All these knobs are made of wood and hand
 painted, but more importantly they are being
 recycled. They have been collected from many
 pieces of furniture I have repurposed.


The Black Fleur De Lis Set


The Hawaiian Set

and finally the Pastel Spring

I had a blast painting them.
What do you think?

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SAS Interiors
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Cant get enough of this color and my new workshop!!!!

I'm on a turquoise color kick! I just love this color from the 
Real Milk Paint co.  They call it cobalt but it's this stunning shade of turquoise. 
This 100 yr old buffet was in great condition. 
I didn't want to cover up the wood but just wanted to enhance it a bit. 

 I forgot to snap a pic before I started.  The wood is quarter sawn oak and hardly needed any
attention. I sanded the doors and drawers and went over them with some stain that
matched the body. Painted with the milk paint. Oh I forgot, I actually did a first coat
with the color "peacock" and then did my second coat in cobalt.  I didn't want the color
to be too bright and I like the greenish-blue underneath.

I have to post a pic of my new garage makeover-workbench area!  Everything was done with stuff
we already had laying around the garage. The wood flooring on the wall has been up in the rafters
for 5 years! Wasn't enough to really do anything with so why not bling up the workspace area?!

 Mr Pretty built me the new work bench and put the wood on the wall. I stained and sealed, as usual!

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Saturday, February 22, 2014

Old World Tool Chest Part 2

Well moving has its challenges doesnt it? Still no internet access at the home front and the tethering app I was using with my phone suddenly decided to stop letting me access secured sites, so that leaves me going to free wifi spots for the time being. But thats OK because it has led me to discover the LaCrosse Public Library, which is a great building, comfortable to work in, and has a boat load of woodworking and antique furniture books, Im a pig in hog heaven here.

Last article I spoke a little about the tools that were included in the old tool chest given to me by my Father-In-Law, brought over from Norway in 1865 by is great uncle Melvin Indahl. For more of the background you can catch up on the story by clicking HERE. This time what I want to do is go over the actual chest itself.
Well here she is, all the way from 19th century Norway. You can see the mileage on her but in my humble opinion, that just makes her all the more beautiful. Color wise its almost a purplish red, and its difficult to tell if its a stain or a paint, I would vote paint, but its very well adhered to the wood, no real flaking or cracking. It is worn off in places but that should be expected. The front has "M. INDAHL" painted on the front. The INDAHL is from a brass stencil that I know is still in my Father-In-Laws tool cabinet, but the M was painted on. a lot of the chest is covered in a splattering of white that looks like over spray from some type of painting.
 Melvin was a carpenter, not a joiner. There is no fancy joinery on this chest to speak of. The boards are all butted and nailed. The outside case is nailed with cut nails, This one was loose and was sticking out a little. I tugged a bit and was able to pull it out with my fingers. I took a few pictures and then hammered it back homewhere it again wedged tight.
 Being a big fan of the book "The Joiner and Cabinet Maker" it was really cool for me to see the cut nails used in the same way Chris Schwarz spoke about. I only wish there was an example of nail clenching on the chest. Overall the construction makes me think of the simple pine packing box that was the first project Thomas made in the book. There are other round head nails used elsewhere in the construction as well.
 The lid for the chest is not connected by the hinges to the base. and the screws that held the keyed lock into the lid have been stripped out of the wood. It hadnt occurd to me until now to ask how long the lid has been free like this. I know Bob (my father-in-law) said he has the key somewhere in his tool cabinet and that hell pass that along when he comes across it.
 It looks to me like the hinges had half the screws removed, maybe to gain access to the inside of the chest. Im not going to really speculate on this, Ive locked my keys in the car before too and broken in with a well bent coat hanger. Life happens. What I was curious about was the screws themselves. I remember watching an episode of the Woodwrights Shop and hearing Saint Roy talk about a specific date in the 1800s when almost over night the whole world seemingly changed over from straight threaded screws, like the one I was able to back out of this chest, to the tapered screws that we know and use today. Maybe some of my readers will remember this date or more specifics about it.
 The nice thing about the underside of the lid is you can get a good look at the wood. The chest is constructed of some kind of conifer. Definitely not the white pine Im used to in Wisconsin, but ma spruce or something of the like. Its a hardy wood, that doesnt really scratch or dent overly easy but it is really pretty light weight wise. I realize it has had many years to dry but it is close to on par with pine chests Ive built of similar size. The boards were probably dressed and smoothed on the outside of the chest, but inside you can still see the rough marks of the sawer on the wood. Again I can only speculate here but the saw marks are for sure froma straight saw blade, not a circular one, and they are pretty uniform and at almost a right angle to the board which makes me think of maybe a steam powered bandsaw as opposed to a pit saw and a couple of hard working gentlemen. But now that I think about it I have never had the chance to see the saw marks left behind by a pit saw, but I have seen pit saws and I think their courser blades would not be this regular and fine.

For those of you unfamiliar with pit sawing Peter Follansbee has several excellent posts about the process over at his blog "Joiners Notes" but here is a link to my favorite one that also has some video with it. (CLICK HERE)
 Inside the chest there are two simple trays or tills, again butted joint and nail construction. They fit tight in the chest and ride on rails built into the sides. The whole piece makes me think. Here is a chest that hasnt been babied at all yet has survived 150+ years. Its made of a pine and butted - nailed joints. It makes you wonder sometimes if all the work that is put into some joinery techniques isnt a bit of overkill. Would dovetail joints, dados, mortises, and tenons have improved this piece? Extended its longevity? I guess thats a tough question to ask. I cut joinery because I love to cut joinery, I probably dont need a better reason than that.
 Below the sliding trays is a larger open space and a divided till section to hold the hand saws. I believe that this area would have traditionally held several wooden body planes among other, longer items. The saw till was made to hold 9 saws, an odd number unless that is exactly how many Melvin owned at the time. I got six saws with the chest, makes you wonder where the other three have gone...
 A close up look at the base molding. I dont know if calling it base molding would be completely accurate but Im certain that this wrap and the one the lid rests on are the big reasons this chest has held together for so long. Notice how the location of the butt joint is alternated between the side board of the chest and the molding. Here you can also see the use of some round head nails instead of cut nails.
 And here is the side almost nobody ever looks at, save a woodworker. The base has taken the most abuse, understandably so. It got a good soaking with a water leak in the storage a year or two ago and the base finally fell out of the chest. Bob reattached it in place with some screws. Again assembled with no muss or fuss, just a couple boards nailed to the bottom and hidden with the wrap of the base molding.

I cannot justify leaving this piece in my shop, It is just too much of a family heirloom to let it continue taking abuse here. My plans are to start constructing a replica of this chest, with modifications done for my tools and some just to make me happy. I will be using dovetails and dados and mortise and tenons and maybe a few other tricks. Once the new chest is done, this one will be able to retire comfortably with some of the other antiques in our home.

Before I go for the day I have one other very exciting note. Matt Vanderlist over at Matts Basement Workshop has added the Oldwolf Workshop to those who have contributed to his very popular "Spoken Wood Podcast" To be included in such company along with other bloggers and woodworkers I very much look up to is a very humbling experience. This is my first go at recording my own voice reading one of my posts and there was more of a learning curve to it than I initially thought so my hat is off to those who do that recording, podcast work often. If you havent, go take a listen to my entry at Spoken Wood Podcast no. 79, and if you havent stop and subscribe to the podcast to keep up with all the great content that finds its way to Matts doorstep.

Cheers
Oldwolf
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Validation




My wife picked me up after work tonight and said "We need to go get milk while were out." OK . . . so off to Wally World we go. Somewhat to get milk, somewhat to just waste some time outside of the house without the kids in tow, just the two of us. Inevitably we always gravitate towards the books and magazines to hang out for just a bit and see what’s new. As always I walked over and checked out the woodworking mags, and was very disappointed tonight as the only two related ones on what looked like a recently restocked shelf was "Fine Homebuilding" and "Popular Woodworking"

Now I like Pop Wood, I would have to call it my favorite of all the magazines out there. I have perused the new edition a couple of times before, but theres not a whole lot in this edition that speaks to me and says "you must buy me you fool!!!!" Im not talking against the quality, or the new layout, both are good. I just have to have at least one big article that screams to me before I buy a copy of a mag anymore. They just didnt have that this time, but that doesnt mean Im not going to sneak a couple minutes of free reading if I can.

Tonight I read a great article in the very back of the mag. It was written by Christopher Schwarz about the influence of Norm Abrams on woodworkers today. If you havent read it yourself, either buy the mag or steal a few minutes of time in your local Wal-Mart. Its one of the first great tributes to the good things Norm has accomplished in his years teaching via PBS.

Norm, the ultimate gateway drug to the crack cocaine that woodworking can be.
OK that might be a little strongly worded...
OK maybe more than a little.

Anyhow, through this article I received some personal justification that I might just be moving along the right path. I look up to both Mr Abrams and Mr Schwarz, and I respect both of their skills and through reading what theyve written or said, I also can say I respect both of their philosophies and opinions. Chriss attitude on woodworking, and the way he can wrap the philosophy and unspoken meaning of the soul into the sweat of the work. . . well it makes it easy to buy into what he says, and I also think that he carries the integrity to shoulder that burden. Who knows what hed say if he read this. . .

After the article finished reviewing the contributions and evolution of Norm, Chris began to talk about personal experience, saying the only plan he ever purchased from the New Yankee Workshop is the one for the Dominy Clock. He believes, as Norm obviously did, that this is a quintessential piece of American furniture, and he even has it in a place where he can see the plan every day, just to inspire him to await the day when hell have the chance to construct his own version.

One thing we did have living in Maine was a DVR. I loved the thing, and I rather miss it. I had set it to record every New Yankee Workshop and Woodwrights Shop it could find. Most of the time after I lazed away on an early Sunday evening, catching up on what Id missed earlier that weekend, I would delete the program, taking the lessons or information and logging it away in my brain. But I never did delete the Dominy Clock program, In fact the device went back to Time Warner with the program still lodged in the memory. I must have watched it 50 times if I watched it once. I have seen a lot of Norm over the years, but there was something about this project. I built a few small-scale models from cardboard to figure proportions, paused the program to scale the piece next to Norms tall frame, judging distance by seeing how his hands stretched across the piece. I dissected every cut and move the program made.

We had decided to move. I had to start packing up the shop; I had of course begun to work on parts of the clock in-between other projects, wanting to take my time. Now it was down to crunch time. I could abandon the work Id done and revisit it in the future, or I could kick myself in the ass and finish it. Start to finish I managed to build the clock in 3 days. No finish sanding, no finishing stain or protectant. Then warts and all it went into the moving truck. Its sitting here in the living room, awaiting its finish sanding, awaiting its quartz movement, awaiting the redoing of the lap boards on the back. Some putty for the nail holes, and the eventual rosemaling (I know a person who does a knockout job on it). Overall it was one of the most favorite things I have ever done and has actually inspired me more than most other pieces I have done.

I like to build chests and boxes. They are kind of my thing. Large joinery, dovetails, through tenons. I dont enjoy cabinet making as much, Im not studied enough for chair making. I do like doing larger case pieces, but I also like details and careful proportions. In the clock, I think I might have found a perfect storm for my methods of work. Case joinery, dados, big pieces that make a statement but dont have to be the center of attention. Since building it I have thought a lot about how to refine it, expand on it, take what Ive learned and create other clocks. I have looked into the market for tall case clocks to see if it’s possible to make a living today like the Dominy brothers did back in the day. I definitely think that if I ever become anything as a woodworker then tall case clocks will be a signature for me, like the Mastermyr Chest is already for those who know me.

The validating thing is for me to be having these thoughts for a while, triggered by Norm, and now validated by the writing of Chris. If you have been on the road for a long time and you cannot see your destination through the mountains in the way, its good to hear someone who has walked the path let you know youre headed in the right direction. Even if on the vaguest level my thoughts are along the same line as these guys, then I may just turn out OK after all.

But then again, who is it that defines just what "OK" entails??  The world may never know...

Cheers all

Oldwolf
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New video posted Lets build a step stool!


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Holiday Wood Crafts Woodworking Plans

Holiday Wood Crafts

Woodworking Plans

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Holiday Wood Crafts Reviewed by Bryan Wolfe on Rating: 4.5
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