Showing posts with label jig. Show all posts
Showing posts with label jig. Show all posts
Friday, March 6, 2015
Guitar dovetail jig plans
Guitar dovetail jig plans
How to make a mortise and tenon or dovetail neck jig - youtube, Luthier and instructor, robert o'brien, shows how to make a neck angle jig for cutting a mortise and tenon or dovetail neck joint on acousitc guitars . Rosewood triple-o guitar kit with dovetail neck | stewmac.com, •full-size plan and bracing template • building an acoustic guitar kit dvd: learn more about it • acoustic kit assembly instructions, 36 pages of photos and Mahogany triple-o guitar kit with dovetail neck | stewmac.com, •full-size plan and bracing template • building an acoustic guitar kit dvd: learn more about it • acoustic kit assembly instructions, 36 pages of photos and . Dovetail techniques - fine woodworking, Woodworker stephen hammer shows you how to cut a variety of dovetail joints, step-by-step, in this video workshop series. Setting up the neck angle jig - youtube, Luthier and instructor, robert o'brien, shows how to set up and test the neck angle jig he uses. this jig will cut mortise and tenon or dovetail neck Jigs - fine woodworking - videos, project plans, how-to, Jigs, how to cut them saftly woodcraftqueen, member | may 18th, 2013. this is a simple jig that can be used to cut dowels saftly. this jig will also prevent the dowel Sliding dovetail joints - when to use and how to make, Of all dovetail joints, the sliding dovetail may be the least well-known, particularly among relative newcomers to woodworking. however, the sliding dovetail may be how to Guitar Dovetail Jig Plans
tutorial.
Friday, February 27, 2015
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Thursday, February 26, 2015
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Tuesday, March 4, 2014
Coping saw jig
Everyone seems to be making Tims three-piece puzzle. Dattatreya Parupudi posted his a few days ago on the Mere Mortals Facebook page. Dattatreya doesnt have a bandsaw or scroll saw, so he cut it using a coping saw and chisels.
He then posed the question: "How can I cut straight lines using a coping saw?"
Well Tim Sluder actually has a coping saw jig! This is pretty cool. If you like, heres a PDF version.
Here are his instructions:
Finally, there was a question about a couple dimensions in Tims design. He has updated it. Here is the new plan.
Thanks guys!
Read More..
He then posed the question: "How can I cut straight lines using a coping saw?"
Well Tim Sluder actually has a coping saw jig! This is pretty cool. If you like, heres a PDF version.
Here are his instructions:
The jig, works best when clamped in a vice or screwed to awork bench. Coping is a two-handed operation that iswhere this jig helps. You have to keep turning your workback and forth to get a straight line as you saw. Well, asclose as you can get due to the blade flex. Make sure to lubethe saw blades to aid in cutting and preventing brokenblades. This jig can be used with a jeweler saw or files.These jigs are easy to replace as they wear out. I used thistype of jig when I was in high school(1975), we used ajeweler’s saw to make jewelry out of coins. Try cutting outthe face on a dime. Let your imagination be your limit.Enjoy.
Finally, there was a question about a couple dimensions in Tims design. He has updated it. Here is the new plan.
Thanks guys!
Monday, February 10, 2014
a pretty good miter gluing jig
cherry, walnut and abalone mirror frames ....
what have we here? im going to go out onto a limb and say we have just come up with the definitive best miter gluing and assembly jigs yet. i dont usually make statements like that, as i know there are untold methods to get the same results. but, that said, this ones pretty good. and, over the years, i have tried a lot of ways to skin that cat ... inherent in gluing four sided picture framelike objects is the clamping problem and the moving problem ... how do you keep all four corners of a frame lined up, the miters tight and the frame square? weve glued them up, it seems, using endless strategies and techniques, none of which, in the past, would i have said were easy and 100% successful ... suddenly, friday, an inspiration struck, as inspirations sometimes do, and now i feel we have solved a tricky problem once and for all ... click the photos to enlarge them ...
ok, the challenge ... to help scott with his show, (see the previous post), at the last minute, (thursday night) he needed two sort of large picture frames, (+/- 39 x 60 x 2), painted black ... will said he could do them and we were off.
in the past six months or so we have made at least a half dozen or more mitered frames with abalone details (scroll down), and we know that it can be a tedious and fussy task ... get those miters perfect on all four corners. yeah, right ...
so, i had this idea ...
* take a piece of square mdf 14" x 14" ... really check it for square. length parallel, width parallel, equal diagonals, etc ...
* set up your 3/4" dadoes and run a groove 3/8ths " deep, parallel to the edges, the width of your frame stock in from the edge ...
* make some 1 1/2" wide 1" thick pieces of something ... i used mdf cause it was hanging around
* notch (rabbet) the corners of those strips (for rigidity), get a nice fit and glue them into the dadoes, and fasten the corners ... see the drawing above and the photos below ...
* try as best you can to be accurate with these corners too as they will tell you about where to clamp your first piece of mitered frame stock. see below .
* add pieces the exact thickness of the frame stock rabbet around the verticals (these can be removable for future different frame stock, to allow the mitered pieces to sit flat on the jig ..
* cut the finished square into four pieces
to use it:
* cut your four mitered pieces and clamp up your first corner, eventually clamping all four corners and checking the diagonals of the frame for square when youre finished ...
* if youre good to go, unclamp and glue each corner in turn. when youre done, you should have a perfectly square, glued up, mitered frame.
works for us .... itll probably work for you ...
Read More..
what have we here? im going to go out onto a limb and say we have just come up with the definitive best miter gluing and assembly jigs yet. i dont usually make statements like that, as i know there are untold methods to get the same results. but, that said, this ones pretty good. and, over the years, i have tried a lot of ways to skin that cat ... inherent in gluing four sided picture framelike objects is the clamping problem and the moving problem ... how do you keep all four corners of a frame lined up, the miters tight and the frame square? weve glued them up, it seems, using endless strategies and techniques, none of which, in the past, would i have said were easy and 100% successful ... suddenly, friday, an inspiration struck, as inspirations sometimes do, and now i feel we have solved a tricky problem once and for all ... click the photos to enlarge them ...
ok, the challenge ... to help scott with his show, (see the previous post), at the last minute, (thursday night) he needed two sort of large picture frames, (+/- 39 x 60 x 2), painted black ... will said he could do them and we were off.
in the past six months or so we have made at least a half dozen or more mitered frames with abalone details (scroll down), and we know that it can be a tedious and fussy task ... get those miters perfect on all four corners. yeah, right ...
so, i had this idea ...
* take a piece of square mdf 14" x 14" ... really check it for square. length parallel, width parallel, equal diagonals, etc ...
* set up your 3/4" dadoes and run a groove 3/8ths " deep, parallel to the edges, the width of your frame stock in from the edge ...
* make some 1 1/2" wide 1" thick pieces of something ... i used mdf cause it was hanging around
* notch (rabbet) the corners of those strips (for rigidity), get a nice fit and glue them into the dadoes, and fasten the corners ... see the drawing above and the photos below ...
* try as best you can to be accurate with these corners too as they will tell you about where to clamp your first piece of mitered frame stock. see below .
* add pieces the exact thickness of the frame stock rabbet around the verticals (these can be removable for future different frame stock, to allow the mitered pieces to sit flat on the jig ..
* cut the finished square into four pieces
to use it:
* cut your four mitered pieces and clamp up your first corner, eventually clamping all four corners and checking the diagonals of the frame for square when youre finished ...
* if youre good to go, unclamp and glue each corner in turn. when youre done, you should have a perfectly square, glued up, mitered frame.
works for us .... itll probably work for you ...
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